Thursday 27 September 2012

India - New Delhi: One Sikh Temple and One Red Fort


In the morning I'm off for samosas and chai at my new "local" - bringing along my Singaporean friend (ok laaa) and I've also adopted a Japanese girl.  A friendly familiar face turns up at the breakfast hole, so we invite him to sit at our table.


He asks how we found this place.  

"You took us here!"

"No I didn't "

"Yes you did don't you remember?"

"No, I left you at the park as I had to go get my friend."

Fuck.

Wrong guy.  

Aaawkwarrrd.*     

*[Excerpt from my new book: "How to lose friends and not recognize people."]


This guy clearly bought my book...

We hire an Auto for 50 rupees each for an hour and go cruising to see India Gate and a bunch of spectacular government buildings.

FYI - This is neither the India Gate nor a Government building.


This driver also charges 50 rupees an hour for *ahem* other services.

In the afternoon we catch the delhi metro to Chandni Chowk.  One of the few times in Northern India where it's good to be a woman as there is no queue to go through the female security checkpoint.

And so many single men to choose from...  *swoon* 

On this saturday the metro is jam packed, and reminds me of the Beijing subway - only slightly more polite.  There is a bit of jostling to squeeze into the trains in time, but it's more of an apologetic jostling as opposed to the "get out of my fucking way" Beijing jostle.


Coming out of the metro in Chandni Chowk, this area seems to be in a perpetual traffic jam.

Caused by my standing in the middle of the road with a camera. 

One of the first things we hit coming out of the metro is a Sikh temple, and we pop in to take a look.  I quickly scan over one of the information plaques, which includes some interesting information about how various gurus and followers were beheaded, chopped in half or boiled alive by one of the emperors as punishment for complaining about the emperor's brutality.

The emperor was an Alanis Morissette fan...
After depositing our shoes in a cloak room, we wash our hands at a tap, rinse our feet at the bottom of the stairs heading up to the temple, and stroll on up.  A man asks me to cover my head as I don't have a hat - he goes and fetches me a piece of cloth and ties it under my chin.  A young woman volunteering at the temple then comes and offers to show us inside.

At the door stands a Sikh man with large turbin, beard and pointy weapony looking pole.  He's not impressed by the way the other guy tied my hat and insists on redoing it.  This time he ties it at the back.  We are taken inside where we receive a small bowl of delicious sweet flour mix, which you then have to give back to the server who tips half of it out and then gives it back again.  Half for you, half for god.   I'm actually quite fond of the food, and when I let the girl know she offers to take us out the back to the kitchen.
Looks like shit, tastes great.  Now enough about me....
In the first section of the kitchen we get to see a man with a giant wok who's cooking up this delicious gooey stuff.  Further back into the complex, and we are shown a room where various curries are being made, and there are also women sitting on the floor making chapatis.

MMmmm Soylent Greeeeeen.
We are then offered free food, and so yes.

Yes.  Yes Yes Yes.
We're led into a large area with mats lying in parallel lines on the floor.  We sit cross-legged with a plate in front as some indian men walk past with a pot and ladle dishing out various curries.   A woman also walks around with chapatis handing them out - which you receive with both hands.
The man next to me seems rather proud of his large pot.   It's the biggest pot I've ever seen in my life.  You know that feeling when it's so big you just can't stop staring at it?  That feeling.

Notice the pot-to-man ratio...
Also, I don't know that feeling.


We head back out of the eating area, wash our hands, and see 30 people sitting down cleaning dishes.  Our volunteer guide explains that these people (including her) work at the temple 24/7 as that is what drives them.  Oh, and everything is free.  The tour, food etc.  She's doing it because she wants to.

More restaurants should adopt this business model and no, I didn't go to business school.
We now head into the main temple complex where some groovy music is playing, and all attention is on an old looking dude sitting up above underneath a golden arch.  It's real gold too.  He must be very good at his job to be able to afford all that gold.
After a quick respectful bow as we walk past, we're back outside to fetch our shoes.  One farewell and thank you to our temple guide later and we stroll down the road toward the large red wall we can see in the distance.

Red fort is a pretty cool area with large walls and big open spaces that I really can't be bothered talking about so you'll just have to look at the pictures below.
What?  I'm not a tour guide.  Stop judging me.

Back in Main Bazaar again for the evening and it's time to wind down with some lassi and street food because I'm a fat fat fattyyyyyy.  The going rate here seems to be 20 rupees for a dish.



India Gate

Government Buildings

Security

Handsome man

New Delhi Subway

Chandni Chowk Streets

Restoration at Red Fort

Inside Red Fort

Inside Red Fort

Inside Red Fort

Happy to see me

Street Vendors at Chandni Chowk

Near India Gate

Bad Driver


Monday 24 September 2012

India: New Delhi - Arrivals, Main Bazaar and the Tomb of Humayun


New Delhi Railway station, 11:30pm.  I have rendezvoused with a friend from Singapore, and we set of in search of our hostel in Main Bazaar.  Following the friendly advice of a security guard in the train station we head out in the wrong direction only to double back to the station after 20 mins of figuring out where the hell we are.

We're definitely at some kind of train station.  That's a start I guess?

We spend around another hour and a half trying to find the hostel in Main Bazaar in the middle of the night fending off packs of hungry barking dogs and avoiding the occasional shady looking dude lingering in the shadows.  We finally find the hostel in the midst of a small maze of alleyways and check in for the night.

And here is the alleyway in the lovely bright midday sun...


The room has filthy pillows, bedding, bathroom, no toilet paper but fuck it - it's 1am and we are exhausted.  I use a t-shirt as a makeshift pillow case and use my towel as my blanket (which I really needed as the temperature dropped down low during the night).  There was no way I was hopping under the zebra patterned brown stained bedding....

ProTip: T-Shirts make great impromptu pillow cases.   

The next day we wander down the road to Connaught place, and are befriended by a fellow from Jaipur in the park.  The park seems like a relatively peaceful place where even the dogs are chilling out and sunbathing.
FYI - That's not a dog.  Also, you might be racist.

The indian chap takes us to his favorite local breakfast spot where we have samosas and chai for breakfast.

It was one of those fancy expensive restaurants where you can see the chef cooking up... 

I should probably add for the faint of heart (or is it the big-hearted ones?) that the "stroll" involves walking past many many people living on the street - black with soot and dirt, some deformed or lacking limbs.  Though I have great news if you are a guy because it seems that if you find a wall you can pee on it.  If you're a girl - well girls don't do dirty things like peeing or farting - (everybody knows that - duh).


In the afternoon we catch an Auto (analogous to a Thai tuk-tuk) from Connaught place to the Tomb of Humayun,

(almost made it - if it wasn't for that pesky front wheel falling off...)

a place that was good enough to take Michelle and Barack Obama to when they visited the city.  Designed by a persian architect in 1562 AD, it's a beautiful monument to the Mughal Emperor of the time - and it's surrounding gardens are another peaceful escape from the revving, honking and general cacophony of the city.

Or if you want to get a good smacking from the guards.



Restoration work

Prayer time

Auto Ride

Main Bazaar

Main Bazaar

Park at Connaught Place

Auto in Traffic

Tomb of Humayun gardens

Tomb of Humayun

Tomb of Humayun grounds

A cow.

Back Alleys

Monday 3 September 2012

China: Hangzhou and West Lake


No train mishaps this time - we have a brisk train ride to West Lake, followed by noodles for lunch at a famous noodle restaurant where a famous poet once at there three meals a day for however long.   I wasn't really listening.

Too busy taking photos of my food.

West lake itself was rather nice.  Quite frankly it is the cleanest place I've been in china.

By clean I mean the ground is made of dicks.
Dicks.  Dicks everywhere.  It's just me isn't it.
As the daylight wanes in a spectacular sunset over a pagoda, we wander off for dinner.  Supercar stores  line the roadside along the lake - this is a very wealthy area.   We end the day with dinner at a restaurant called Grandma's Kitchen.  It's a 45 minute wait to get a table and they don't take bookings.  The wait in the cold is worth it because the food is amazing and only cost about 30 kuai each.



China: Nanjing


As of 2012 - The one word that comes to mind to describe Nanjing is muddy.  High-rises, shopping malls and upgrades to roads are pervasive everywhere and so downtown is one never-ending construction sight.

I forgive them because they made this future overlord building.

It's also nigh on impossible to catch a taxi in the middle of the day near the city centre.  All the cabs that drive by all have passengers in them, and if you go to a taxi stand there are 100m long queues of people who say they have been waiting for an hour to catch a ride.  Maybe I should become a cabby in Nanjing…

Or a construction worker - a job with a view.


Off to the Ming tomb - it's a nice enough park, but when you finally get to the tomb there's not much there.  The sign says that the tomb is under the hill but hasn't been excavated.  Call me suspicious but I have a sneaky suspicion there's not much under there.

"We were going to take a look at this culturally and historically important site, but then got bored and were like - you know - whatever."

We get a chairlift ride up the mountain which is surprisingly long and takes about 30 minutes each way.  As we were going up the hill (I wouldn't quite call it a mountain) we became shrouded in mist and so may or may not have had to fight off forest zombie hordes.
 
Fine.  There were no zombies.  Only terrifying chair ghosts.
And the Evil Mountain Buddha.

Among other things we also visited the Nanjing war memorial museum.  It contains a very modern exhibition chronicling the events of the rape of nanjing.  Surprisingly it's not overly emotional or patriotic but it rather even handed, and tells the story through a fascinating series of photographs timelining some of the very nasty things that happened there.  The museum concludes at a mausoleum with the bones of victims.  Worth a look...